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General Category >> Trapper 300 >> Refurb of newly purchased 300
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Message started by sr4a on 26.02.2015 at 20:34:10

Title: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 26.02.2015 at 20:34:10

Hi Guys,

Just recently bought 'Carpe Diem' and transported her from Chatham to Dalgety Bay unfortunately during the January storms(plenty of new white hairs now). Have started to overhaul some of the systems-control panel and wiring for engine rotted, engine serviced (never by the looks,gear box cooling bypassed!!!) warning sensors for oil and temp broken and having heart attack at Volvo Penta prices for parts (MD5B engine)checking carpart wholesellers for compatible parts so have a lot to do as well as replacing standing rigging and general tidy up and improvements.
Can't sail, first boat but I'm looking forward to getting her shipshape and hopefully having many years fun in her.
Look forward to talking with you all at some point and if anyone has any tips or advice then all the better. :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Poll on 26.02.2015 at 21:15:44

Hi and welcome! I'm a noob too and have had lots of great advice from the more experienced members on the board, have a read around as it gives you great insight in to the '300.  :)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 03.03.2015 at 12:50:43

Thanks Poll,

A question for the 300 owners out there.
I am tidying up the boat wiring but the 'liner' between the roof and internal walls just seems to be lino screwed to the wall. What do other owners have fitted as I am looking to hide the wiring better than present, thinking about industrial trunking with the mains sockets fitted as one idea though will need to glue wood mounts behind it to hull for screwing onto.
Any ideas or solutions would be much appreciated
:)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 03.03.2015 at 18:31:34

Hi
I too am refurbing a 300 I bought last summer.  Very surprised by your comment about lino as the 300 came with a GRP internal lining with ply wood strips at joins such as deck hull join.

Google images of trapper 300 and you'll see these mouldings.

There were two different intenal layouts: Mark 1 and Mark 2.  Mark 2 has fixed dedicated chart table and galley down port side whereas Mark 1 had galley on starboard near companionway and no chart table.

Both however had grp moulded liners.

Justin

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 04.03.2015 at 13:48:36

Thanks Justin,

It's a Mk2 interior, I have seen some photos  of other 300s, as you say with the plywood strips, but at some point someone removed these and replaced them with what appears to be 'lino' strips, one edge glued to the roof and then the bottom edge screwed into the side lining - not the best finish and one I certainly will be upgrading during the refurb along with tidying up the wiring and cables behind.
Considering electrical dado/skirting trunking as I can hide wires internally fit sockets to the front face and access wiring easily for repairs/upgrades slightly more expensive but a better solution than what's fitted.
Would be interested to hear any other thoughts on this.

Stevie     :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 04.03.2015 at 16:47:57

Have looked through historic emails on this site and have found  an email (Page 3) regarding the same query. Looks like some 300s were fitted with this plastic strip which with time hardens/cracks or the holes for the screws enlarge and it no longer stays put!

;D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 24.03.2015 at 19:40:16

Hi Folks,

Just an update of how things are progressing. Have rebuilt my control panel with new warning lights, starter button and buzzer, wiring loom and oil and temp switches all sourced on line or from local motor factors (the most complicated job was cross referencing the temp switch for an identical one which was 1/7th the cost of a replacement from volvo!!) Overall cost was a fraction of Volvo wholesellers.
I will be fitting this in the next few weeks. I am also replacing the 12 volt boat wiring as it's been added to over the years with domestic twin and earth and connector strip, a right mess.
Will get there in the end but for now lots of work still to do, oh the joys haha
:o :o

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 29.03.2015 at 02:36:59

How do you download pics to here and has anyone used iroko instead of teak and your opinions please?
:)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Nick on 29.03.2015 at 06:57:23

there is a section in the top of each board that has thnreads that always remain on top. The one that says tips on using the forum explains how to do pictures.

you don't upload them, you embed a link . You need a place to store your pics like photobucket or picasa or one of the newer competitors.

take note of the size requirements.

Nick

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 18.04.2015 at 14:40:15

Hi Folks,

Will have to get photos of refurb posted to show works undertaken.
Rewiring going well have taken out a bin bag worth of electrical cable that was redundant or useless. Going to scrappies with it, should have enough scrap for a pint haha.
Is it possible to get spares for the surrounds around the windows as one of mine is cracked, if not will have to repair with epoxy.
Teak on transom is split near end, nothing major but I would like to replace with Iroko, is this more trouble than it's worth? Teak prices would mean a remortgage haha.
Trying to source gasket kits online  for around engine starter panel and nasa instruments in cockpit, jeezo who would have thought rubber would cost so much.
In cabin the rear of the instruments in cockpit were boxed in with ply and painted to match interior, these were horrible and ugly, are there alternatives out there or is it a case of making your own, was thinking of 5mm ply to curve over two semi circle side walls to blend into bulkhead, if that makes sense.
With regards to mooring our club has swing moorings though we buy the weights I know it's all about friction on the seabed and chain weight etc but would a 500kg train wheel be sufficient for the boat?
Trapper specs say boat weight is about 2000kg is this accurate, plus weight of accessories onboard?
Don't think I'll get it wet this year as have lots to do on a budget but I want to get all this work done now and then it's just a matter of general maintenance to keep it all tip top (I hope haha).
Was never this busy when I was in RN!!
Look forward to any hints or tips.
TTFN :)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Stephen Green on 19.04.2015 at 09:07:36

Re moorings, here's what our moorings officer says, 500kg looks right
http://www.ccsc.org.uk/move/moorings.pdf

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 09.05.2015 at 21:07:27

Hi Folks,

This may be a silly question BUT on Mk 2 Trappers above the oven/cooker there is a vent/cowl to ventilate the cabin.
The cowl on the roof can be turned  to suit the weather/seas I imagine, but there is no diaphragm or seal in my one to stop any water ingress in severe weathers.
The reason I  ask is because I turned up to the boat this weekend after winter weather this week, in MAY, and had about 3 inches of water above the cabin deck, there was a tell tale drip for the vent which was facing west could this allowed so much water into the cabin? Our weather was atrocious but what about the weather at sea.
Your thoughts and experience will be much valued.
The boat is also on a trailer and has not had her bottom wet cos of all the remedial work.

Regards,

Stevie :) :)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by John Woodhouse on 10.05.2015 at 09:06:46

Hello  Stevie
My T300 is a mk1 with a different layout & no ventilator above the cooker.
From memory of seeing Mk 2's what you have is a Dorade type vent but without a baffle. I am sure I recollect seeing a Mk 2 with a blanking plug replacing the vent when conditions dictate.
When you refer to the cabin deck I assume you are referring to the cabin sole, ie where your feet are when down below? 3" of rain is quite a lot.
My MK 1 has a ventilator above the heads which can be left open when moored with no risk of water ingress. Does your Mk 2 have this fitting also?
John

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 11.05.2015 at 11:32:44

Hi John,

Thanks for your reply, will have to look into getting a ventilator with a baffle have turned the hood to Port was astern but as boat lies West to East the very heavy rains we had last week along with the driving wind must have directed the rain into the hood.
The sole had 3 inches above it, took me near 2 hours and about twenty buckets to empty out and dry the bilge, needless to say that I never got much refurb carried out on Saturday. Bilge pump electrics were disconnected with refurbing the 12 volt panel and wiring. Typical!!
There must have been some weight of water in the boat, luckily my trailer has been modified with heavy duty supports and is rated at 3.5 tons.
There is a vent above the heads will need to check what type and that it functions. Just seems to be a plastic flat-mushroom type fitting?
I see there are vents on the market that are sprung to open normally but close if hit by a wave/water.
In heavy seas having a vent that is completely open would certainly be cause for concern, wouldn't want the boat to turn into a submarine haha.
Still trying to get the link to work for posting photos, will get there eventually and will post some before and after pics.

Stevie.  :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 27.05.2015 at 13:46:44

Don't wish to cause divisions with this question but what's the best caulk/mastic/sealant to use on the windows?
Will need to remove port side, clean and reseal as it has slight leak, should I do other at same time in case it leaks later or is it case of 'if it ain't broke...'
Rewire nearly finished,   thought I had it completed but now plan to run a cable from satnav to vhf radio as it is DIS compatible and it will keep wiring neat and tidy.
Not having much luck uploading pics but will try another program.

Stevie  ;D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 28.05.2015 at 16:40:37

Hi guys
here are some photos of carpe diem prior and during refurbishment
http://imgur.com/a/K3Tsc

Stevie  ;D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by John Woodhouse on 29.05.2015 at 11:06:47

Very impressive Stevie - well done on all the work.............John

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 01.06.2015 at 06:54:35

Thanks John will add more pics as work progresses, one question though -  I have to patch the holes in the head lining where the old lights were fitted. Which would be more suitable for the work fiberglass and resin or epoxy?
I would need to thicken the fiberglass with cabosil for working above and could be messy or 'back' the holes and fill with epoxy.
Was working on the domestic fuse panel and wiring this weekend. No sleeving on any of the earthing in the panel or sockets had to replace the fusepanel entirely as there were that many knockouts removed you could have stuck your fist in the sides of the panel!
12 volt system should be back together this weekend if I can get up the to boat as its SWMBO birthday and think she would be rather annoyed if I went to the boat instead haha.

Stevie :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by John Woodhouse on 01.06.2015 at 16:39:31

Hi Stevie - sorry no experience on this. My headlining is a pale cream GRP moulding. When I have replaced interior lights I have positioned them over the original holes..............John

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 01.06.2015 at 17:50:20

Hi
I got from ebay one inch diameter white plastic hole plugs.

They took almost 2 months to arrive from the far east but do the job of filling previous and new holes very well.  The old holes may need to be enlarged slightly to one inch thought with a file.

They have done an excellent job as I've fitted new deck clutches and a main sheet traveller so have needed to plug new holes.  A one inch hole cutter attachment to the drill is a must.

Good luck.

Incidentally I don't seem to be able to get you photo link to work!

Justin

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by John Woodhouse on 01.06.2015 at 18:21:56

Re " Incidentally I don't seem to be able to get you photo link to work",
I had to copy & paste into a new window.

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 01.06.2015 at 19:50:58

Hi John,

You're right about viewing the pics, you need to copy and paste onto a new tab to go directly to the site, had lots of bother trying to link pics onto forum posts, my daughter's a whizz on these things and this was the only way we could do this.
Saw the plugs on lots of sites, will get some to cap some holes as having access to the wiring runs in future will be easier though want to seal  most of the old holes and screw holes.
There are some great videos online of people carrying out repairs on GRP hulls though most don't show you how to work overhead but mention thickening the GRP resin to a 'peanut butter' thickness before pressing in the matting, maybe thought epoxy would be easier to apply?
Weather has turned for the worst just now so will have to get the port window sealed when I can get a few dry days, fix the holes and then give the interior a lick of paint and varnish the woodwork, gonna get the missus a sander for her birthday haha.
Will post more pics soon.

Stevie :)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 01.06.2015 at 20:14:50

http://imgur.com/a/a76Cf

Here's a link to photo album so far just copy and paste to a new tab.

Stevie :D


Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Nick on 01.06.2015 at 22:59:36

I've looked at your photo site and I am not sure it is compatible with having them on here. You need the url of the individual pho not the album to embed the picture into a thread. When I right clicked on your pics I was not able to open just that one pic in a new tab so could not identify the url for that pic. Perhaps as the owner of the pics you can do that. If you can just click on the picture icon in the posting box and insert the url inbetween the code.

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 11.06.2015 at 18:10:10

[img[url=http://imgur.com/wxAUPGJ][/url][/img]


Hi Guys,

Here's the 12 volt wiring replaced and tagged with an ID label with a couple of spare runs for future use.
At the bottom of the opening you can see the Neutral bar as all there was before was 5 amp connector strip.

Stevie  :)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 11.06.2015 at 18:14:51

[url=http://imgur.com/OAoGJRt][/url][/img]

Here's the fuse panels mounted, all I need to do is renew the circuit labels on the two panels, the mount is painted matt white and will be glossed when I repaint the cabin interior in the next few months.
Another job crossed off the list!

Stevie   :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 06.07.2015 at 14:49:47




Hi Folks,

Was up at the boat yesterday and was reinstalling space heater in engine compartment so had to isolate 230 volt fuse panel.
As I would have to climb down ladder and switch off at power 'dalek' I took the lazy option and unplugged the cable as there is a connection in my cockpit locker.
The picture is what I found.....

Previous owners? made extension with MALE Connector at service end when it should be a FEMALE connector, pins are live and ready to give a nasty bite to fingers...

Any ways rectified problem but that's one of the reasons why I'm taking everything to bits to check (or is that signs of paranoia haha).

Stevie.  :o




Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 07.07.2015 at 15:43:54

Hi Folks,

Has anyone replaced the thermostat in a Volvo Penta MD5 engine?
There are solid copper/brass pipes that are connected to the engine block are these pressed in, do they pull out, require seals etc? Not a lot of help online about replacing thermo.
Any info much appreciated.

Stevie  :)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 03.10.2015 at 14:10:25

Hi Folks,

Been a while since last post, working hard on Carpe Diem I am replacing the rotten wood around the portlights before resealing the perspex. Cut out all the old wood, shaped the replacement and bonded it to GRP with epoxy and clamped for a week before undoing clamps. So far so good


:D




Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 23.10.2015 at 20:03:52

Hi folks,

The wooden insert around the st'board portlight has bonded a treat. Will probably leave it until spring to seal portlight as the temp here is dropping so may not cure properly, have a tarpaulin over entire boat so very water tight.
I'm sanding down all the repairs to old holes, chips etc inside the cabin, also keying the paintwork to repaint in the spring.
Maybe will tackle gas system (see other post) and also plan to redo standing rigging with my mast down, over winter, plus all electrics and cables in the mast itself.
Now the boats wind and watertight I can sit inside with an electric heater, run off the 230 volt system, listen to the radio and plod away doing bits and bobs - good way to decompress from all the weeks stresses.
Compiling a list for Santa for the boat so hopefully if I've been good I'll get some things for Carpe Diem.
Will add some more pics as things progress.
Most of my club have their boats out for winter and a few are tackling the wee jobs required as I'm sure most of you will be undertaking very soon. Enjoy your ships husbandry.


Stevie :)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 10.11.2015 at 21:35:10

Hi Folks,

I've sanded down the teak trim and bulhead in the main cabin, removed the drawers for refacing, one question though does anyone know how the hinged bottom drawer (think it was classed as a bin in the list of fixtures by builder) can be removed.
Don't think the elbow hook catch is the problem, it feels like there is a lip that stops it against the cabinet carcass, which is enclosed.
It's a Mk11 layout with sink on port beam.
Will post pics shortly of progress.

Stevie  :-/

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 11.11.2015 at 17:13:19

I actually removed the screws in the surrounding trim to remove the whole unit as it needed significant re-inforcement which was much easier to do once the whole unit was removed.

By the way I finished all the internal woodwork after rubbing down with either sandolin extra natural or Deks Olje.  Both excellent products.  All the outside woodwork is finished in Deks Olje No 1.  There isn't any varnish anywhere on the boat now.

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 11.11.2015 at 18:27:08

Hi Justin,

So the whole bin assembly is held in by the trim? I was hoping that wasn't the case but oh well.
I have removed all the teak trim on the seat edges, shelves, main cabin seat back and the chart table. Had to drill out plugs then some screws or bolts came out ok but most I had to drill out, some teak has split but some was saved. I have American white Oak planks that I will profile with my router to replace the damaged teak.
Some may be horrified, but I plan to white gloss some of the teak/oak as the cabin feels sometimes gloomy, the main bulkhead I will gloss white but leave the vertical teak support with an oil or varnish finish.The trim around drawers/cupboards will be teak but the doors themselves I will gloss paint (they are only teak veneer anyways) Do you think the oiled finish is better than the varnish? Does it require to be coated yearly?
The lining I plan to paint in a 'warm neutral' (not beige of magnolia!) colour to compliment the contrast between the white gloss and teak trims. Trying to create a modern, fresh interior that will be rather pleasing to spend a few nights aboard with SWMBO but also wil stand up to the knocks and scrapes when out sailing in all weathers.
Like I said before will take some before and after pics to show the work.
Was also looking online for ideas for suitable sole coverings, lots of different views on carpet, tiles, plywood, mats, treadmaster etc.
Would be interested to hear about other owners interior finishings.

Stevie :)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 12.11.2015 at 15:41:55

I've used a combination of oak, beech and Deks Olje the lot.  Sole is original wood and I painted the plastic liner in the forecabin gloss white to brighten it up but kept the saloon as was.

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 12.11.2015 at 22:52:55

Hi Justin,

I can imagine there will be a lotta old salts spinning in davy jones' locker with us talking about interior design when it's all about the sailing lol. Still I'd rather have the comforts of the QE II rather than the 'Black pearl'.
Maybe start a new thread 'Pimp my Boat' or 'DIY SOS ... ---...' haha.

Stevie ;D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 13.11.2015 at 09:59:29

Yes, I have a Pandora 22 too which I totally refurbished over 10 years during the winter months when I wasn't sailing her.  I started a thread on their website about luxury!  It got as many views as the sailing ones, so perhaps there might be a demand here too.

Good luck with the refurb.

Justin

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 16.11.2015 at 19:19:25

Here's some pics of the interior, I have removed all shelf 'lips', chart table,doors and cupboard fronts.
Will watch the weather and temp to see if I can start to paint the cabin...







Stevie  :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by John Woodhouse on 16.11.2015 at 19:27:24

Stevie: your pics are too big & indistinct - on my PC anyway - to see. Maybe reduce pixel count considerably? Say max 500*1000

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 22.11.2015 at 17:36:28

Hi Folks,

That's me removed the bin and drawer unit from Carpe Diem, Justin was right with his removal technique, you have to drill out the plugs and unscrew the frame from the carcass to withdraw the unit as a whole.
There was rubbish in the void dating back to god knows when, obviously fallen out of the top of the bin when it was used for that, yuk!!!
It really is a large void space behind that could be used for much more storage but never mind.
Temp has really dropped this week, just above freezing but will gloss and paint doors, trims and units in my workshop where I can put the heating on to aid drying.

Stevie  :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 23.11.2015 at 16:33:13

You could always put a circular inspection hatch in the bulkhead under the chart table to give access to behind the bin.  I'm using them to give access to the bolts from the anchor locker and also to protect the shore power connection point when at sea.

I may put one in under the chart table but it isn't high on my priorities at the moment.

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 27.11.2015 at 10:35:27

Hi

Took genoa tracks off yesterday and cleaned them up and then refixed them with sikaflex 291i and new bolts, washers and nilocks.  The track must originally been fixed to the deck before the headlining was installed.  Probably before the deck was joined to the hull.  I had to drill 1 inch holes through the headlining in several places to give access to the bolts.  Anyway, job done, but awkward and very messy.  Sikaflex gets everywhere.

I've also cut out a hole for the circular inspection hatch just above anchor locker drain and filed out external hole to allow the 3/4 inch bronze skin fitting.  I've still got the higher up inspection hatch holes to cut to allow access to the hull deck joint so that bolts can be used instead of screws.

When weather allows it'll be the hull deck joint bolts next.  These should be easier than the genoa tracks as they should be easier to get at, but will probably take about 4 days to do.

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 27.11.2015 at 11:39:16

Hi Justin,

That's an awful lot of holes in the lining? Are you going to cap them, fill them or replace the lining?
There seems to be an awful lot of nuts, bolts, hoses etc that seem to be fit and forget when the boats were formed.
I am going to refit the electric bilge pump outlet above waterline just where the toilet is, though only way I can reach hull is through the inspection hatch above 'heads' will be awkward to fit seacock but will manage.
They never thought about maintenace for the hand pump for the heads as you cant really reach the hosesclips or pump when it's bolted in place. It's things like this that makes refits all that more harder, great when things are new but when they're 30 years old very awkward to work on! More hatches to access spaces would have been great 'specially the engine bay!!!!
Anyways off today, plan to varnish the woodwork in the workshop though it's pelting down here... maybe go for a beer....

Stevie   ;)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 27.11.2015 at 12:59:36

I replaced the heads last winter with a turn and click compact Jabsco.  Cut out the grp platform under the loo so that I had good access to the seacocks.  Replaced the pipes and fitted high level anti syphon curves.

Having double clipped the pipes to the sea cocks and mounted new loo on a sheet of ply shower board and the hoses on the bulkhead, I then fitted board with bolts to flange left from platform and attached hoses to the loo.

This has worked very well.

Gets over the access problems and makes life much easier.  Couldn't have done it any other way.

Justin

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 25.12.2015 at 00:05:52

Merry Christmas Everyone

Stevie  :D ;D :o ;D :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 10.02.2016 at 17:38:37

Hi Folks,

Still sanding away, how can a little boat have so much sanding to do?
Temp still too cold to start the painting so doing little jobs around the boat, just added a panel socket inlet for the shore supply so no more having to worry about jamming open cockpit locker to protect the cable. Another job to tick off the list lol.
More sanding this weekend oh joy!!!

Stevie  :(




Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 26.02.2016 at 13:33:17

Hi Folks,

While the temp here is around freezing and not been able to start the painting/varnishing of the interior I have been tackling jobs on the mast, Have removed the standing rigging for dropping off to the chandlers to be renewed, only job that's causing me grief is the jib forestay inside the rotostay furler. I tried last week to separate the drum and foil with no success at all.
This week I will tackle using heat gun, strap wrench around the drum and grips on the tack eye while turning the drum anti clockwise. if still no joy will buy some plusgas spray and soak it and try again next week.
Will be renewing VHF aerial and wiring, deck/steaming light wiring and removing the Nasa Clipper wind vane as it's giving weird readings, either see if I can fix it myself or send back to Nasa for refurb.
Give the mast a check over and clean-up and decide how I'm going to plug/fill any redundant holes in the mast (grommets, rivets or threaded ali rod screwed in, cut and then filed down).
Hopefully the temp will rise in the next few weeks so that I can start the painting as it will really bring the boat a new lease of life plus it's a major job I can tick off the list.

Hope all your husbandry is going well for the new season.
Will post pics when I get the chance.

Stevie   :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Andy on 26.02.2016 at 19:16:01

Hi Stevie,

Good to hear someone else is suffering the cold spells, although i doubt its nearly as cold down here compared with you.

Rotatays are notoriously difficult to replace the forestay through, I replaced mine last summer with a lovely Harken MKIV unit as the rotastay had seen its day and just wasn't worth the time ore money on replacing the stay. What a great bit of kit the harken is, would 100% recommend it if you can afford it. Mine cost about £1500 fitted with forestay (can't remember exact amount as it was done with all other standing rigging)

As for filling old holes in mast, I would recommend using monel rivets put in with a dab of duralac to stop galvanic corrosion. I fully striped all fittings off of my mast back to the bare pole and refitted every rivet/replaced tracks, sheaves, wiring conduit etc while i did the major refit last year. If you have the time, for the cost of the rivets it may be worth taking fittings off and reriveting them with duralac behind them as a lot of mine when taken off revealed some corrosion on the mast that if left would have written the mast off 10 years down the line. The worst were the spreader brackets. Also the compression tube that the threaded bar passes through that bolts the spreader brackets on is made of aluminium and the halyards had nearly worn this though so I had new ones machined and put them in.

Any questions, just ask.

I found this picture of the corrosion behind the mast base turning blocks which bodies were made from stainless steel. Stainless in aluminium does not usually last well without a galvanic isolator like duralac or tefgel (tefgel is usually the better option for threads in aluminium and duralac better for a fitting with any gaps etc)


Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 26.02.2016 at 20:20:16

Hi Andy,

Thanks for the info about the mast, will really give it a thorough inspection now and check all the areas you mentioned.
Unfortunately we don't have anywhere in our grounds where I can work on the mast and leave it on supports, our grounds have a public right of way through it so I would have to lift it on and off the boat to carry out major refurb (another problem to solve, sometimes there's no other person around on a Saturday when I'm up at our club. Only see the same few faces carrying out any work now and again but the majority must leave it to the last minute or not bother!) in case parts went missing or got broken.
Hopefully the rotostay will cooperate tomorrow, it's in good nick, foils ok and slider runs smoothly, will check the bearings and cleanup when I get it off.
Sometimes what seems a little job can grow into something major however when it's all completed  you know that's it's all good and should last a long time, just need to sell a kidney to finance it all haha.
Have considered running a multicore cable up the mast for the Nasa wind vane, steaming light, deck light and possibly anchor light atop the mast and then the VHF cable so only two cables internally in mast and only two deck glands then on coach roof. Previous owner(s) had some cables through roof sealed only with tape and mastic!
I can see this refit taking another year to get it right, as everyone knows it's all down to time and money(need to check euro millions ticket later haha).
Will be picking your brains as months progress for any advice and will keep you posted.

Stevie  :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Stephen Green on 27.02.2016 at 11:21:01

I've been advised that the easiest way to replace the forestay inside the furler is to get someone who has a portable crimping tool to make it up on site.

It is something on my list when the mast is next down. I've already ruined the screw heads on the lowest furler joins, so that's the only option other than cutting a serviceable furler off.

I always sail with a jib so the forestay load is low.

Let us know if you get the drum off.

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 27.02.2016 at 20:49:56

Hi Folks,

Well I'm sitting here relaxing now with a beer and feeling pleased as punch!
Up at the boat today to tackle the Rotostay IV furler, weather was absolutely stunning, clear blue skys not a breath of wind, anyways..
Unblocked drain hole in drum and squirted in some WD40 (yes I know it's not as good as plusgas etc but heyho all I had) then after 10 mins set about the tackeye/foil screwy bit with a heat gun. Heated for 20 mins, fitted chain wrench to drum and mole grips to tackeye and tried to undo.... after near popping a hernia, reheated for another 20 mins, tried again.. eyes bulging not a millimetre of movement.
Heated up again and tried thermal shock treatment ie doused in cold water just tackeye, not drum, to see if it would break corrosion.....Nothing... started to think it will never budge.
With all the work on the furler and movement the joints on the foil started opening. Decision time... dedicided that if I took drum and lower section home I could soak in penetron oil etc and use my workshop to separate the swine.
Cut the terminal eye off, so I could remove foils, at the mast head end, now I was fecked if I couldn't unscrew the drum.
Removed the foils so only 8 ft with drum remained.
Went to the club workshop to use their vice, gripped drum in protected jaws supporting the foil on crates,boxes etc and decided to give the tack eye a bloody good whack with a hammer and not my rubber mallet, that I had used before and guess what happened........
It bloody turned about1/4 inch, so I then gently tapped it again and it kept turning until it was hand tight then I undid it....all this time my guts were in knots worrying incase I broke the casting, couldn't undo it etc and would need to spend hundreds of pounds to replace the furler.
Lost some of the ball bearings when it came apart as they're only held between two loose races but that wont be a problem!!
If the rest of the refurb goes like this I'll probably keel over and die before I complete it, talk about stressful!!!!
Anyways to boot Scotland beat Italy at the rugby so it was a bloody good day after all.
See the pics below.
If I can offer any advice then maybe the heat, oils, gently tapping with mallet, maybe helped, work on it, take your time but at the end of the day a vice and a heavy whack with a hammer achieved results.... WOOOHOOO.
PS sorry about the photo quality don't know how to resize etc but you can still make out images.


Very Happy Stevie   :D  ;D :D



















Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Andy on 27.02.2016 at 20:55:41

Hi Stevie,

Sounds like a lot of hassle regarding mast laid up on boat, I was very lucky the yard I was in let me put the mast inside one of their undercover areas to work on it.

I hope you manage to sort the rotastay out, sounds like yours is in slightly better condition than mine was. Completely agree and plus once you have rebuilt the rotastay you will know exactly how it is put together and will be able to service/maintain it much easier in future. Thats one of the biggest arguments for me doing all the work onboard myself, when something goes wrong you stand a better chance of fixing it.

Regarding mast wiring, i have attached some pictures of what I did. Removed old metal wire conduit that was riveted to the inside and replaced with PVC conduit. I have 4 wires. VHF, Wind transducer, 3 cored cable for anchor/tricolour and a 3 core cable for steaming/deck light. I then have a rather lovely scanstrut cable gland which they all pass through.

I keep meaning to upload pictures on here of the refit as I have loads but I haven't found the time to sort through them all yet.

Andy




Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 27.02.2016 at 21:11:47

Hi Stephen,

With the rotostay IV (or rottenstay as it's been called) you can't access the swaged terminal inside the drum to undo it from the turnbuckle body unless you unscrew the tackeye/foil assembly, other furlers will be different, can't say as I'm new to this yachting lark but looking at forums online or asking members here will get answers.
Let us know how you get on or even what type of furler you have?

Stevie  :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 27.02.2016 at 21:48:29

Hi Andy,

Yours pics are really sharp, as you say, so much easier to work on the mast on tressles and under cover. This may sound like a dumb question but when you ran the conduit inside the mast, how did you hold it against the inside of the mast to drill and rivet it?
Did you lay it on the downturned face and drill it, then rivet it, when gravity was holding it down?
Will need to see if anyone does a tinned multi core cable to fit inside mast.
One question open to all, on our 300's we have bow nav lights, now when talking about fitting anchor light to masthead, one club member said I should have a tricolour light up there as well???I thought would only need anchor light.
Reason for using multicore cable is to try and make it future proof incase of adding too in the future and less cables rattling inside mast!
Like the base plate on tabernacle for fixing blocks to, was that custom made?
The corrosion you found behind blocks did it require action ie reinforcing,plating etc.
Years ago when we used aluminium wiring on LV transmission lines, we had to coat everything in chromate paste when terminating cable ends, saw the price quoted online for a tube of Duralac ...bloody hell!! Think I have 1 litre tub of chromate lying in garage, need to check, then sell most on fleabay to pay for total refurb to Carpe Diem hahahahaha.
If I'm down in Guzz for any reunions, with old shipmates, will need to swing by and meet up with you and see Crazy Horse.


Stevie  :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Andy on 28.02.2016 at 23:10:50

Hi Stevie,

Looks like you posted just before me yesterday so didn't see it. Sounds like you're making progress at least! My 2 pence worth with stubborn bolts or fixings is first use plugs to penetrate over night at least and then heat with a map gas torch which will get it incredibly hot, electric heat guns just don't get it hot enough. Like you said though, can't beat a hammer but it's always a risk.

Conduit fixing to mast is an interesting one. Each set of rivets is in pairs about 3/4 inches apart from memory so I turned it so the conduit rested inside the mast in roughly the correct place. (I had already pre drilled the conduit outside the mast using the old conduit as a template.) I used an allen key through one hole to hook the hole in the new conduit and pull it tight against the inside of the mast and the riveted the other hole next to it. Then remove allen key and rivet 2nd hole. Did this process for the other 4 or 5 pairs up the mast. Was actually not too bad once I had a method.

RE tricolour, I fitted one as I plan to do quite a bit of offshore sailing. You're right you don't need both deck bicolour and masthead tricolour and they should definitely not be on at the same time but a tricolour is visible from much further away than a deck hight bicolour so makes sense for offshore sailing or sailing in shipping waters etc. Tricolours are not however seen so easily in close quarters like harbours as you have to look up, this is when your bicolour is most useful. I generally use my bicolour for coming into harbour etc after racing but will use my tricolour for any passage at night.

I used 3 core tinned cable for mine as the vhf is it's own cable and so is the wind transducer. That left me with one 3 core going to mast head and one 3 core going to middle of mast for steaming/deck light.

Mast base plate was not custom made, I searched for a long time to find that and it just happened to be a very good fit for the 300s. Was bought from a french website. It wasn't cheap mind. I will try and look through paperwork to find where it was from.

Luckily the corrosion didn't need attention, i consulted a rigger who said I caught it just in time and as i did away with the old turning block i just fitted stainless cover plates on these areas with lots of duralac. The only other bit of corrosion was behind the spreader brackets but it wasn't nearly as bad as the turning block bits.

Yeh, duralac is very expensive for what it is but 100% worth it in the long run.

Let me know if you're ever down this way.

What website are you using for photo sharing? I may be able to help with your resizing issues

Andy

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 29.02.2016 at 13:17:21

Hi Andy,

I'm using 'Imgur' for photo sharing, pics look ok on mobile phone but rubbish on pc.

Stevie  :(

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by John Woodhouse on 29.02.2016 at 16:48:11

Hi Stevie & Andy:
Firstly many congratulations on all the excellent work you are doing. It is good that theT300 population is being maintained so well as the model enters at least middle age!
One point I did pick up however:"You're right you don't need both deck bicolour and masthead tricolour and they should definitely not be on at the same time but a tricolour is visible from much further away".
The tricolour is for sailing only & should not be used when motoring, when the correct rig is pulpit bicolour & mast mounted steaming light, together with stern light. Motoring with tricolour is a definite no no. The lower lights are also useful should the tricolour fail- nipping up the mast in mid channel not exactly recommended. In other words you do require both!
Meanwhile good luck with the remaining work.............John

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 01.03.2016 at 12:35:55

Hi John,

Hopefully with all the work being undertaken on Carpe Diem she will have many more enjoyable seagoing years left in her before being sold as scrap to a Turkish yard like our naval ships haha.
Regarding the masthead Tricolour will be fitting one during upgrade, as you and Andy say, it's better visibility when at sea and also another lighting system should one fail at a critical moment.
Hope all is going well with Star Trapper?

Stevie  :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Andy on 01.03.2016 at 21:45:50


sr4a wrote on 29.02.2016 at 13:17:21:
Hi Andy,

I'm using 'Imgur' for photo sharing, pics look ok on mobile phone but rubbish on pc.

Stevie  :(



Hmm, I had a look at their website and can't find any obvious way to resize photos. I use photo bucket and you can set the upload size in there which I set to 640x480

Andy

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 02.03.2016 at 19:16:17

Here's an attempt at resizing hope it works





Woohoo

Stevie  ;D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Andy on 02.03.2016 at 19:40:01

ahh, that's better. Will your club not allow you to store your mast under those trees there while you carry out any work on it..?

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 03.03.2016 at 12:49:00

Hi Andy,

I could lay it on my road trailer and padlock for security.
My only worry is the length sticking out beyond the tow eye as the club tractor is moving boats about for space on a regular basis and at the back of the trailer is an embankment so can't lay mast more towards back of trailer.
I could lay it elsewhere however our grounds are open to the public, people out with their dogs, children or even teens at night so I don't fancy anyone meddling with it.
We have had things being stolen from the grounds in the past and I don't fancy having to pay for a replacement mast if it went AWOL.
Not ideal but will cross that bridge when I come to it.

Stevie  :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 04.03.2016 at 13:47:33

Sorry, I suspect that I am being really thick but how do you attach photos to this forum.  I'm just about finished refurbishing Harlequin and thought I'd post my photos but don't know how.

Attaching simply doesn't work!

Thanks
Justin :-[

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Andy on 05.03.2016 at 11:00:50

[quote author=JHarley link=1424982850/60#61 date=1457099253]Sorry, I suspect that I am being really thick but how do you attach photos to this forum.  I'm just about finished refurbishing Harlequin and thought I'd post my photos but don't know how.

Attaching simply doesn't work!

Thanks
Justin :-[/quote]

See this thread Justin. Hopefully this explains sufficiently. Any questions just ask

http://trapperyachts.org.uk/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1228664688

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 21.06.2016 at 18:35:47

Hi Folks,

Been a while since last post, work still ongoing with painting and varnishing Carpe's interior.
Have applied about 6 coats of oil based varnish to the doors, cupboard front and trims which has taken quite some time to ensure the surfaces are like glass at least the weather has been great for drying times.
Have decided to keep the teak instead of painting it especiallythe main bulkhead after filling all the various holes and sanding down it came up really good.
Posting some pics of various stages will get one of the main bulkhead next weekend.
Plan to cover the hatch way and exterior woodwork with tung oil never used it before so will try it on the tiller first.
Trying to get the same screw sizes in brass was a bit of a hassle can't seem to get No.3 x 1" anywhere but 3/4" should do as I need to drill fresh holes for the new hinges.
Hope all is going well with racing/refurbs/sailing for you guys.

Stevie :D






Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 07.07.2016 at 16:21:05

Hi Folks,

Here are a couple more pics of the ongoing works.

Varnishing of the interior wood work and surrounds complete, at least 6 coats of varnish were applied, now masking off areas prior to painting lining. You can see the six holes, for a tv bracket, plugged with teak but the other multitude of screw holes are nearly invisible, it's come up nice and swmbo likes the finished result and is happy that it wasn't painted.




The bin unit temporarily fitted



Masking off



Getting through jobs list woohoo...

Stevie  :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 30.07.2016 at 21:24:34

Hi Folks,

Here's the latest pics.

Have started to paint the coach roof lining.
After sanding down, filling holes, priming surfaces, etc for last 6 months, here we go..

Used Zinsser 3-2-1 self priming perma white that will stick like s**t to any surface ( yep not marine grade paint but I'm gonna take a chance that expensive marine grade ain't always best?)
This is only the first coat, see what you think...












Stevie  :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 31.07.2016 at 10:32:46

Looking really good.

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 13.09.2016 at 18:18:28

Hi Folks,


Hope all is well, season's passed really fast, hopefully everyone's has had an enjoyable time on the water.
Being very busy with crewing on club race outings and working on 'Carpe'.
Anyways here's the latest pics, nearly finished the painting, weather has been great...
















Stevie  :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 03.10.2016 at 18:07:00

Hi Folks,

The Teak plug production line is in full swing...

Getting 3 plugs out of one big one.

Tap into jig...



Tenon saw to cut flush...



Sand smooth...



Pop them out...



And repeat...



Fitted the covers to the bulkhead to hide the rear of the instruments and wires, have used the clips that hold on plinths to unit legs on kitchen/bathroom cabinets.

Before..



After..



Just need to drill 20mm hole for wiring and fit a grommet..







Just need to touch up paintwork and just about done.

Weather is still nice for this time of year so should be completed all interior painting within the next fortnight, just the doors to rehang but can do that over the winter.
Hope your projects are going well, I'm sure people will be getting their boats ready for winter as it fast approaches again, already working on my list for Santa lol....

Stevie

;D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 12.11.2016 at 22:07:42

Hi Folks,

Painting and touch ups have been completed just in time for the temp dropping (we had snow mid week!!)
Got the stbd port-light sealed as well and tested with power washer and it's sealed perfectly.
Putting varnished woodwork back into boat, it's starting to take shape.
Will get some photos on swmbo phone as hers take better pics and post next time.
Like I mentioned before with Justin I too noticed only one nut or no nuts on the toe rail bolts on 'Carpe' I have now fitted a lock nut where I could,about 90% of them, by god it was hard work getting to most of them needed 2 mtr arms with multiple joints.
Some bolts had no nuts, don't know if a nut was embedded into hull grp when molding or if the machine screw just cut its own thread when joining, but a bit of a worry 30 odd years on about security but fixed now (about 1/3 were slack!!) and mastic jointing compound still very much pliable so no worry's about the seal.
Hands all itchy with glass fibre just have to have a wee dram to numb the itch and get the duct tape out to dab the hands lol.
John, Paul and Jonathan - inspirational! I truly admire you guys and the ones at my club who still live/love to sail and enjoy every moment, good or bad no matter how young.
Anyways enough burble, drinkin' times a wasting and watching our brave boys and girls on festival of remembrance on telly.

Happy sailing/ships husbandry,

Stevie

:D ;D :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 13.11.2016 at 08:47:55

Well done.
Yes the toe rails were sloppily secured on these Trappers but I can attest that once redone after 1200 nm Harlequin is dry so Carpe Diem should be fine.
Justin

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by John Woodhouse on 13.11.2016 at 14:47:52

Stevie: re "..... have to have a wee dram"
Unit of issue?
John

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 23.11.2016 at 18:51:46

Hi Folks,

Here's some more pics of the work in progress.
Still putting back in woodwork bit by bit with just some faces to varnish where I have fitted new plugs over screw/bolts.
Took tabernacle off deck at weekend as I'm fitting new machine screws and dome nuts in cabin. There's a number on bottom of plate does anyone know if it relates to anything?
John, a 'wee dram' is a Scottish measure of whisky which varies in size due to thirst, generosity of host, number of people requiring a dram, the price of the whisky its self and swmbo critical gaze, LOL
Both portlights now resealed and watertight, pressure washed the upper deck last weekend to remove slime/sludge etc, just got to fit the inner trims inside cabin.







Notice the face above the locker still requiring varnish after fitting with new plugs.





Weather has really turned cold.
Hopefully will rise above freezing again so I can apply last coats of varnish.
Hope all is well.

Stevie

:)


Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by John Woodhouse on 24.11.2016 at 17:36:58

Thank you Stevie.
Actually we have some very close Scottish friends & your "wee dram" description fits their hospitality precisely!
Meanwhile bateau looking really good - well done.
John

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 26.11.2016 at 22:34:46

Hi Folks,

I just spent 40 minutes typing out an update and I lost the lost it all... WTF????
Anyways spent the day in workshop sanding my wood.....!!!!! (no smutty pun intended)
Had to make up bung for the vent I removed above cooking space in MKII
I am convinced this was for a cabin heater as it has tail of metal flexi hose within the vent plus it's installed by the vetus vent so why the need for two vents?
See pics below.
Turned drill into lathe (HSE compliant NOT)
Drilled out 50 mm Hole in 1" pine, twice, to make 2" bung and turned down to diameter and length of old vent.
Will check tolerance when up at boat and can fine tune at club before gluing in place and glassing deck and cabin lining in spring.

John,

Actually we have some very close Scottish friends & your "wee dram" description fits their hospitality precisely!

I hope your Scottish friends are better than some of mine..
When offered a dram at friends the answer to the question 'say when' is 'when it touches the finger' ie the top of the glass but unfortunately I have some friends who poke their finger to the bottom of the glass...

Anyways see pics..



Exhaust vent (it includes mushroom dome not in pic)



Homemade lathe (complies with HSE?)



One rough bung later...

Slainte

Stevie
:D



Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 03.12.2016 at 21:09:51

Hi Folks,

Just a quick one...
Stuck the plug in the roof vent today.
Removed what rotten wood I could, replaced with pine segments glued in place to reinforce the deck, then glued the bung before stuffing in the hole!!!(why am I thinking foreign 70's movies lol.)
Once glue has set remove bolt, re drill centre hole for dowel and then glue dowel into place.
Will glass in the bung come spring once the glacier melts ha ha.
Varnishing for the doors has abruptly stopped, too cold after work, although heater in workshop really just can't be ar**d, mind's willing but bodies weak  :(, old age doesn't come alone...


Anyways another dram for the bones and some pics, enjoy...





TTFN

Stevie

:-[

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 31.12.2016 at 15:06:09

Hi Folks,

All the best for 2017 when it comes and a Happy New Year.

Stevie

;D :D ;D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 07.01.2017 at 20:08:03

Hi Folks,

Hope the New Year is going well for you all?
Here's some of the latest pics from the ongoing work on 'Carpe'
Have been off for a few days holidays over the festive period unfortunately I had 'man flu' so never managed to do half the things I was hoping to do, still never mind...
Have used upvc facia trim (the kind you use around doors and windows, to hide the gap between the cabin and roof lining.
Used wellnuts on the lining, and 5 mm machine screws to secure the upvc to the cabin lining with a snap cap to cover the screw.
No sharp screw ends into the void where my wiring has been run and course threads to split or crack the GRP.
Picture aren't great on my phone, as always, but see what you think?

Before:



After:







Upvc trim:



Wellnut in situ:



Time for some refreshment..

Stevie

:D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 21.01.2017 at 21:56:05

Hi Folks,

Sorta more of the same pics as before but swmbo's phone takes far sharper pics than my old Box Brownie lol.


Port Quarter berth trim



Stbd side fwrd cabin trim



Port side fwrd cabin trim



Repaired portlight liners (they were cracked, chipped and snapped when I had to remove)



Liner fitted, caulking required, sand down and paint...comin soon...



Wet Locker shiney door


The yellowing above the trims is the bare GRP, the original plastic trims were siliconed to the roof but the silicone was a b****r to remove and I thought the new trim would cover it.
NO SUCH LUCK so had to scrape and sand the residual silicone (should have done it at the start but hey ho) so will touch up paintwork when temp rises to positive figures ha ha.

Anyways all that dust.. time for a dram.


Stevie

;) :D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 21.01.2017 at 22:27:11

Hi it is all looking really good.

It your forehatch a yellowy translucent grp  or something nicer?  In one of your photos it looks white.  Have you painted it and if so does it still let light through?

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 22.01.2017 at 15:38:33

Hi Justin,

My forehatch has a perspex window fixed to the hatch. See pic



Lets lots of light through though it has a light blue hue to it but fore cabin is bright and cheery on a sunny day.

Stevie

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 22.01.2017 at 18:48:23

Thanks

Looks like a good idea.

I might paint mine and fit such a window next winter.

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 11.03.2017 at 21:05:54

Hi Guys,

Long time no news...

Been doing odds and sods around boat and in workshop.
Had to adjust my road trailer supports, last week, for best positioning for launching and recovering boat.
Intend to fabricate a launching trailer in a few years but will use existing road trailer and strip it down to clean and protect after it's been in the water so it will last.
Internal refurb is almost complete, weather is improving glacier well melted.
Cleaning and checking upper deck today and came across a problem.
I have a Proctor mast and the 'hinge' that links the boom to the mast is knackered to the point that it will snap in time or extreme stress, so where can I get an off the shelf replacement?
The fixings on the mast and boom are sound it is the 'hinge' bit that looks like a figure of eight twisted in the middle by 90 degrees ( my description is probably rubbish don't know if it has a name but it's almost like a universal joint that doesn't flex in the middle?).
Can you guys help?
Hopefully if I have to go to a machine shop to fabricate it, it wont cost an arm and a leg, all it is is probably 1" aluminium rod milled to the required thickness at right angles on opposite ends and a M6 hole drilled both ends.
Could rough one out in my workshop with a hacksaw/Grinder and bench drill, maybe have to if prices are stupid (wish I had paid more attention in the machine shops when I was apprentice lol)

I suppose everyone will be busy getting boats ready for the new season hope all is well.

Look forward to your comments.

Well done England Rugby team, very strong this season, showed us Scots where we need to keep thinking about our spacing and overlap when defending!!!

Time for a wee dram (it is my birthday lol)

Stevie

;) ;D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by John Woodhouse on 12.03.2017 at 10:36:16

Hi Stevie
Re "my description is probably rubbish don't know if it has a name" presumably you are referring to the gooseneck? So named for obvious reasons.
Any chance of a photo?
John

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 12.03.2017 at 14:00:30

Hi John,

Here's the pics...








Should it have a nut and bolt to secure it to mast connection?

Stevie

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by John Woodhouse on 12.03.2017 at 16:45:43

Hi Stevie - part not immediately recognised. You could have a word with David Aldridge at Aladdins Cave Riggers at Bursledon (Deacons). Very little he doesn't know in my experience...........John


Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 12.03.2017 at 20:15:47

Hi

Mine doesn't look like that.  My gooseneck is stainless steel.  Harlequin was built or rather finished in 1986 so they may have differed over the decade of production.

Sorry can't help, but John is as usual right.  Take it to a rigger for their view.

I must get down to the boat the masts are due to go back up in a fortnight and I've got to install the new standing rigging and service the engine and winches and antifoul.

Looking forward to this season.

Justin

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 12.03.2017 at 20:19:26

Actually yours looks something like the one on my old Pandora.  It was a sliding gooseneck.  Instead of a cunningham you pulled the gooseneck down on a track on the mast to tension the luff as the wind increased.

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Paul G on 12.03.2017 at 20:33:30

Hi Stevie

That is a rather unusual arrangement, most goosenecks look more like this:

http://www.tenayatravels.com/images/2010%2012%20Dec/Booom%202.jpg

Johns advice to give David Aldridge at Aladdins Cave Riggers at Bursledon (Deacons) a call is sound advice. He re-rigged Jasta for me, is a top guy and knows his onions.

Cheers

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Paul G on 12.03.2017 at 20:37:06

You might want to try these guys too:

http://www.allspars.co.uk

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 12.03.2017 at 20:59:26

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the advice.
I have emailed the people you have mentioned plus many more found online so hopefully will get a hit?
The main body is called the gooseneck slider and the hinge part is called a toggle.
There is a company called RigRite that has many types of sliders and toggles to fit your requirements.
I have also seen some toggles which is just a solid round bar with the two holes drilled at right angles to each other at opposite ends so the shape isn't critical just length and thickness of toggle.
Should have no problem having one made in a local CNC shop.
Might replace the slider too as it's showing wear in the bottom hinge and hole.
Was fearing the worst and thought I wouldn't get a replacement but it's looking like I will, just a case of how much for?
Will keep you updated.

Stevie

:D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 17.03.2017 at 13:39:13

Hi Guys,

I'm in contact with Alladins cave and Allspars so hopefully they can help.

I'm now after the slider gooseneck and mine is worn quite badly.
Got some ali square bar to machine the toggle so can do that myself.

Here'e a question:

https://marinestore.co.uk/Barton_Genoa_Slide_For__T__Track_25_mm.html
(Copy and paste to browser)


Would this work if I removed the loop and fitted a S/S 'C' bracket drilled to take a drop pin for the toggle.
It has a SWL of 1400kg (hopefully this is the slider fitting itself) would this be able to handle the boom loading?

Stevie

:-?

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 18.03.2017 at 12:01:19

Why not covert to a fixed gooseneck and use a cunningham instead of sliding the whole boom down?

Just a thought.  Very few yachts use a sliding gooseneck.

My Trapper 300 which was practically the last built has a fixed gooseneck and I use a cunningham to flatten the luff.  There's a lot less friction with a cunningham.

I've also dispensed with the cow horns and have rings to guide the dual rope reefing lines to upstand blocks and deck organisers to jammers on the coachroof that can be used from the cockpit.

So other than taking down the main, I seldom need to go forward other than to set the spinnaker pole.

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Paul G on 18.03.2017 at 16:26:05

Hi Stevie

I'm with Justin, keep it simple.
How often would you realistically adjust the boom at sea?
I've sailed a lot of miles on all sorts of boats and never adjusted the boom position with a sliding goose neck once.

Cheers

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 18.03.2017 at 21:41:27

Hi Guys,

Thanks for your comments and advice.
One of my problems is that this is all new to me i.e. sailing a yacht, normally I turn a key and go but I have always had a love of sail, anyways.....
My reasons (right or wrong) is that's the way the mast was designed so it worked before etc.
It may not be efficient for racing but I wont be racing in my own yacht until I feel competent and that may take some time lol.
(Don't mind crewing for more experienced skippers, can learn a lot)
As I've said before in threads, it's worrying the number of redundant holes in the mast that are open to the elements that must be compromising the strength in some way, so I don't want to be adding anymore if not necessary, in fact in time I want to seal them all with ali rod.
By the way there's a black band on the mast at the boom track and I read somewhere that the foot of the sail/boom had to be set at this height when racing cos of rules in the 'old days' - something like that?
Can any of our 'experienced' members of the forum explain for the novices?

Hope the preseasons works are progressing well for all.


Stevie

:D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 19.03.2017 at 11:18:04

Most yachts don't have a sliding gooseneck but a fixed one.  The black band shows the lowest point that the main sail tack should be positioned so that the sail area isn't oversized for the class rules.  There is usually a mark at the head on the mast above which the head shouldn't be raised.

I'd still get rid of the sliding gooseneck and install a fixed gooseneck.  It'd be stronger and simpler.  Using a sliding gooseneck means that the kicker and sheet needs to be adjusted as well as the slider to take up any excessive slack in the luff as the wind increases.  Simply tigytening the halyard or cunningham doesn't require the kicker or sheet to be adjusted and puts less strain on the mast.

As for the holes in your mast, are they corroded?  If not I wouldn't worry about them.  If you don't like them being left open you could put rivets in using plenty of anticorrion paste but they are probably ok just left.  Failures usually I believe result from the standing rigging not being changed at a 10-12 year interval; stress cracks in the tangs at the top of the strounds if these aren't replaced with the wire shrouds and the gooseneck itself failing due to an involuntary and violent gybe.  To prevent the latter I have preventers rigged permanently which double up as barbarhaulers for use on the spinnaker sheets to make them into guys.

I hope this makes sense.

If you are new to sailing there is even more reason to convert to a fixed gooseneck.  With a sliding gooseneck the loads and friction are at their greatest when you want it to slide most and therefore increases the difficulty of making the adjustment and the likelihood of it jamming.  Most cruisers don't bother with a cunningham and simply tighten the halyard.  However if your mainsail is stretched being able to pull down the tack is useful otherwise the sail becomes far too baggy and causes you to lean and produces excessive leeway.

On Harlequin when I bought a new mainsail to replace the old baggy one her speed increased by over 1.5 knots as the slot worked and the excessive heal disappeared with the flat sail so that instead on doing 3.5 knots beating I was able to do up to 5.8 knots.

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by John Woodhouse on 19.03.2017 at 12:46:51

Paul I agree with you : "I'm with Justin, keep it simple"..........John
PS visited Deacons office yesterday to meet Rachael Foster the new 'dry side' D&R marina manager. Nick Gill remains as 'wet side' manager.

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Paul G on 19.03.2017 at 20:16:52

Stevie, if you are new to sailing, I would recommend a dinghy sailing course that will give you a good grounding in the basics of sailing. Follow this by the RYA day skipper theory and practical and a VHF course / first aid course and you will be a lot safer than most on the water.

John, I popped into the office to get an electric top up and was served by a very pleasant young lady. I guess that was her? I did wonder why the office was full! Had a few jobs in the go, so didn't linger

Cheers

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by John Woodhouse on 19.03.2017 at 21:30:34

Stevie: spot on advice from Paul.
On the boat front I recommend an RNLI Sea Check session - totally free. A non judgemental advice session to ensure boat up to scratch safety wise. Either contact nearest RNLI station or Poole HQ. Used to do these myself but now retired.............John

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 21.03.2017 at 17:13:23

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the advice will give the gooseneck mod some serious thought.
As for the training courses, plan to do a few over the next few seasons, luckily our club is a recognised RYA training centre so we run these courses, need the VHF first for my licence.
We also have an RNLI station in South Queensferry so I will ask them to give 'Carpe' a once over when I get her in the water and happily give a donation to their organisation.
Glacier is reforming as I type, brrrrr bloody snow...

Stevie

:-?

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 18.06.2017 at 17:36:49

Hi Guys,

Been a while since last post hope all is well with everyone?

Here's a few more pics regarding 'Carpe's' refurb.

Old cooler was converted by previous owners for two leisure batteries by chopping out bottom of locker so the batteries could sit but didn't really have them secured very well so tidied up the cutout, built a box for the batteries and fitted straps,
Bolted through 3 sides so should be a lot more secure.
Gooseneck slider is getting tig/mig welded at a fabricators, basically they're in filling and reforming the worm aluminium hinges reshaping and drilling new holes so will be as good as new when done.
Insides just about completed making new locker lids and then start on anchor locker and mast then restep and that should be it, maybe a lick of deck paint and a good scrub.





Corner cut out from box as thickness of the box bottom didn't allow it to lie flush as it's on the hull





Happy sailing folks,

Stevie.
:D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 19.06.2017 at 09:14:37

For comparison this is what we did on Harlequin for a second battery installation.  Box is oversized so that we can upgrade to a 110 battery in the future.

https://goo.gl/photos/RPrM1Gnr8Pq1rMzT9

Justin

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 24.06.2017 at 21:32:02

Hi Folks,

Was tackling the anchor locker today.
Usual Trapper build - the inner lining had a 2/3" gap short of the deck.
Previous owners have tried to seal it with a layer of grp cloth but as it was never sealed or built up, it just 'rotted' over the years to become brittle and damaged.
Ripped it out, cleaned up lining, fitted well nuts and secured my upvc lining which fits perfectly against the hull /deck inner edge.
Will remove next week and run a bead along the lining and edge and refit the upvc, will paint the locker with some bilge paint later.
Tightened up the toerail bolts and fitted lock nuts while I could access the locker area













A question before I sign off.

I had 3 deck glands for the mast wiring that I removed and filled in the holes as the glands were old and leaked.
Can't decide whether to fit a multi gland that can take all the cables making it neater or fit a swan neck cable entry tube so all cables and plugs are able to be passed through the tube with having to remove connectors etc if unstepping mast.
What are your thoughts?

Stevie
:-?

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by John Woodhouse on 25.06.2017 at 10:42:35

Hi Steve - re deck glands etc:
ST has glands for mast lights. All sealed with self amalgamating tape & no problem (so far!)
Radar connected via terminal box in forepeak
VHF coax direct from mast top to radio - never  had better reception.
Does mean un stepping mast a potential issue. When standing rigging replaced done in situ - Aladdins Cave. They used mast of boat alongside to access.
John

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Andy on 27.06.2017 at 21:08:37

Looks like you're making good progress, heres a picture of my deck gland for you...


Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 28.06.2017 at 12:10:55

Thanks guys,

Really can't decide what to do for the best.
I like the multi gland though you still have a number of individual holes drilled through the deck and then the same again in the roof lining though obviously these can be hidden if you install a junction box on roof lining or has anyone fitted a multi gland internally to hide the holes?, it's more to do with aesthetics and also making sure its 100% watertight.
My thoughts on the swan neck are -  one hole, albeit 35mm diameter, but all the cable/connectors can be passed through it together without having to undo connectors/plugs made of to ends
Problems can be trip hazard if working at mast or jib/sheets fouling on pipe.
Some people have not sealed them and have had water coming through in rough weather but a foam wedge fitted inside would help with water ingress.
Both are priced at around £35

Decisions, decisions...


Stevie
::)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Justin on 30.06.2017 at 14:45:10

Hi
I fitted a multiplied 3 years ago. Leaked like a sieve so removed it. Epoxied hole having removed any rot.. Then drilled 3 oversized holes. Then epoxy filled them. Then drill 3 small holes. Fitted 3 individual cheap circular glands with siva flex. No issues this season dispute some heavy weather sailing like the Lundy Race.
I hope this is useful.
Justin

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 02.07.2017 at 11:03:00

Thanks for all the posts guys will let you know in due time what I decided to fit.

Andy, need a little information please?

Rewiring mast and was unable to draw through new wires/draw wires as old wires snagged and snapped etc.
Might have to replace the conduit like you did on your post last year.
Question - is the conduit in two individual lengths? From the foot of the mast to just above spreaders conduit is riveted portside near the front but after the spreaders it is fitted portside middle of mast so does the conduit have an offset or is it two lengths?
Trying to feel if there's and entry/exit in the conduit where the deck light fitting is located will only remove old conduit if all else fails.
See the pics below -  the amount of self tappers fitted, especially the two located at the conduit, is unbelievable.
Have removed the sheaves, corrosion not too bad behind fittings, will re-secure with machine screws, re tapping holes if need be probably fit a gasket between sheaves and mast as well as well as smearing with duralac.
You can see a bird has tried to build a nest inside so will remove all the gunk and clean up.
The mast lay across the deck until I got it lifted down to the ground as I was working around the bow roller I noticed slight movement when standing on it so took a pic inside locker, which I'm still working on.
The machine screws have no washers or nuts securing the bow roller!!!!
Probably would have lost it when mooring the boat next year what were the builders thinking!!!
You can also see the original cable for the bow light trapped beneath the backing plate for the guard rails!!!
Anyways any more advice you can give will be much appreciated will also be studying your old post.



Why cant people blunt the end if using self tappers?



One or two screws are seized but once removed off with the foot!



The three deck screws are already removed but the ones through the hull have no washers or nuts as well!!!!



Stevie

:)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by John Woodhouse on 02.07.2017 at 15:12:13

H Stevie
Interesting pics. No two T300 masts seem the same so cannot add much - my halyards all internal & never had to replace any wiring.

Re the bow locker pic - ouch! From memory the forestay chain plate is bolted via the deck to that rusty plate, the latter being sandwiched between hull & deck at the toe rail. I would be checking the integrity of that rusty plate. During major work on Star Trapper some 15 years ago opportunity was taken to replace with stainless steel.

John

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 02.07.2017 at 20:42:24

Hi John,

Will remove the old back-plate, fashion a new one and fit. Really awkward to work in the locker space, was lying on my back with head upside down working on the nuts and bolts just so I could see them.
Body felt it had been battered the next day lol.
Once reinforcing and bow roller completed then I will be really confident nothing will happen when on swing mooring

Stevie

::)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 05.07.2017 at 20:34:47

Hi Guys,

Just a quick update, got my gooseneck back from the welders and they've done a crackin' job.
I've just finished filing it to shape and then polished it with grinding paste and emery cloth to remove the old pitted marks.
Will drill the holes once I've made the toggle.
Originally gave it to a machine shop but after two weeks I contacted them to ask how things were going, they decided that they would need to mill a brand new gooseneck rather than repair and the cost was an arm, leg and kidney - needless to say collected it and found a welder with great reviews and got it back the next day for cost of £30.

Here's the before and after pics









Racing last Friday, wind stopped on 2nd lap of course and we managed to drift home about 40 mins after we would have finished, seals gave us a nudge lol

Stevie

;D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 08.07.2017 at 21:14:25

Hi Guys,

Mast rewired a doodle, foot, head and mid mast all ok, wiring rods make it easy but then again I am a sparky lol.

Backing plate was a real pain to remove but it came in the end, my mates a fabricator and will make new backing plate in SS for a case of beers.

Here's some pics...

PS Weather was scorchio today.



Foot of mast...



Mid mast fitting...



Nylon pull through installed, minus self tappers...



Old backing plate removed...
4


Backing washers and new nylocs fitted for pullpit notice how far right bolt is just through and no more because of thickness differences in deck!!!
Once I'm finished refurb there will be no more imperial/metric mix of fittings all will be metric!!!!






Stevie

:D

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Andy on 10.07.2017 at 21:32:59

Stevie

Apologies for my late reply, looks like you're doing just fine without me. That goose neck looks like a good job!!

My mast conduit was 1 piece all the way up but like John said, no 2 are the same. Feels like ages ago i was going through all this.. its all worth it once its done and you have confidence in your rig.

Those self tappers in the mast should be replaced with monel rivets where possible.

If i can help in any way let me know but looks like you're going through the same processes i went through and dealing with it well.

Andy

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 20.07.2017 at 21:55:12

Thanks Andy,

Mast refurb coming along great, Nasa Clipper Mast head unit returned today all repaired and for only a few pounds plus quick turnaround, great service.
Fitting rubber gaskets behind turning blocks, tapping new holes for machine screws and coating in Duralac, corrosion is only light surface pitting. Removing all self tappers, will replace sheaves, clevis pins and blocks while at it.

Right Folks, your tips for cleaning up the aluminium mast please.... just general stains and dull finish to try and clean up?

Keep you posted as always,

Steve

:)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by Duke on 26.07.2017 at 19:49:54

Looking for any sails for my trapper 300 that I'm doing up ...any help given will be very much appreciated  :)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 06.08.2017 at 11:16:49

Here's the latest mast refurb pics:




Gaskets fitted between mast and fittings and smeared in Duralac




Aluminium rivets used to fill up redundant holes in mast




4 monel rivets failed mandrel fell through the body into mast when I started to compress the rivets, have contacted the company to look for replacements as I on bought enough for the job plus 2 spare so will complete next week

Fitting Nasa Supernova to masthead when it arrives.

Nearly done

Stevie

:)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 13.09.2017 at 17:51:55



Hi Folks,

Fabricated Spreader end caps as one was missing and other was chewed up a bit.
Mate is still to fabricate backing plate for forestay.
Mast refurb nearly complete hopefully will step it in the next couple of weeks.
Hope all is well?

Stevie

;D








Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 17.09.2017 at 16:00:51

Hi Folks,

Mate cut SS backing plates for forestay, fitted yesterday and finished the anchor locker Upvc liner just need to seal top edge with silicone.

See pics below:








Maybe give the locker a coat of bilge paint before weather turns cold we'll see how time goes and fit seal around edge of locker.

Stevie

:)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 22.10.2017 at 20:58:14

Hi Folks,

Just a quick update, fitted 'fingers' under the backing plates so that the whole assembly spreads the pull to the hull join as well.
Wiring of the mast completed was a bit of a struggle as I don't even think the diameter of the conduit was even 20 mm however got 4 cables through it eventually. (Vhf, Nasa Masthead Led, Nasa Clipper Wind and Steaming/decklight.
Also noticed entry/exit point for deck/steaming light in conduit was nothing more than a hole hacked into the conduit complete with razor sharp edges, ahh the attention to detail - quality!!!
Will take more pics soon planning to re step mast in next couple of weeks.

Stevie

:)







Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by John Woodhouse on 23.10.2017 at 15:45:48

Stevie : that makes a lot of sense. The forestay chain plate on Star Trapper fits between deck & toerail. I would worry about deck distortion  if full load taken by deck only......John

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 06.11.2017 at 12:47:18

Hi Folks,

Just done some last minute glassing before the ice age sets in here again for winter.
The old heater vent has finally been finished off should have done it during summer months but was one of those 'I'll get it next week jobs...'
Anyways laid up the CSM both sides and then mixed some cabosil into resin for final layer.
Before anyone asks I don't think it's the face of Jesus or Hitler in one of the pics of the CSM layers LOL


Is that a face I see before me?


Outside cured nicely though temp was dropping



Peanut Butter's gone mouldy mister!

By the way I've sanded down all external teak and have treated with Starbrite Teak sealer and the wood looks fantastic.
One of the products that actually does what it says on the tin!
Will take some pics and post soon.

Stevie

:)

Title: Re: Refurb of newly purchased 300
Post by sr4a on 12.11.2017 at 13:04:49

Hi Folks,

Here's me singing the praises of Starbrite teak sealer (other brands are available lol)









Done wonders for the teak

Stevie

:D

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