Hi Folks,
Thanks for the comments John, I'll pick up some grease from the local 'swindlers' near the end of season, the tube is about 1/2 packed with grease still but previous owner didn't leave any tubs so wasn't sure if it was a specific grease. It seems to be a lighter type grease than the tub of Blakes that I have for the seacocks and I don't want to use that if possible cos of the price of blakes grease!
Don't know if 'Carpe' was a bad omen for the Captain of QE as he's been relieved of command, wonder if he fancies becoming my First Lieutenant, lol.
Graham, just strip your wood right back, I used 60/80 grit and sanded out any deep dents/gouges but be mindful if it's a veneer over plywood core. I also used teaks plugs to fill any large holes and teak dust mixed with wood glue to fill tiny holes. Dust off as much as you can and then wipe over with a rag soaked in white spirit.
Dilute your first coat of varnish with ws, I start at 30% varnish to 70% spirit. Sand when dry with 120 grit and wipe again with rag in spirit, repeat 30/70 ratio if surface looks and feels pocked, I think the base coat is most important for the final finish so don't rush it.
Build up the varnish ratio 50/50, 75/25 until 100% varnish. Reduce your grit grade between recoating, I finish on 320 and then for final coat I use a light rub using green dish cleaning pads (scotchbrite I think is brand name). Warming the varnish or applying on a hot day really helps it flow smoothly. I use foam rollers to apply varnish and then lightly brush out edge to edge in a straight line with the grain then 90 degrees to it this eliminates any bubbles etc repeat this until you are happy no spots missed and before varnish starts to cure. (it's astounding how you can have areas where the varnish doesn't adhere to the surface and you only seem to find out when it's dry, I think the experts refer to them as 'holidays'?). Check and check again for any brush hairs on surface.
Keep the coats as thin as possible as I hang the surfaces vertically so no dust or insect will land on the surface and the varnish never sags or runs.
For hard wearing areas I have coated up to 8-10 coats but I like to apply at least 6 everywhere else.
The varnish I use is S/fix 'No nonsense yacht varnish'. Some wood on 'Carpe' has been varnished now for 2 years and though not at sea has been in a marine environment with winter and summer temps and hasn't show any signs of cracking, peeling etc and also has received the occasional knock during refurb and still looks like glass but time will tell.
Remember it's taken me 3 years but take your time and don't rush, depending on my schedule a hatch cover would take me an average of two weeks to varnish if I'm working on it nightly. Get as many surfaces into your garage to do at the same time and if on the boat ensure area is as dust free as humanly possible. A vacuum cleaner when sanding is your best friend!
I prefer an electric sander to hand sanding until last coat then using a scotchbrite pad by hand on the surface.
The pound shops sell foam rollers that you can chuck away when finished coating, the same for brushes, just make sure you check for loose hairs before using and during use.
Any badly damaged teak I've cut out and replaced with a fillet or replaced the whole piece with american white oak using original piece to profile new wood.
I plan to make duck boards for the bottom of the lockers to keep storage tubs/boxes up off the bilge if there's any water in there and make some shelving/ holders for dishes, mugs, maps and the likes. You can buy teak strapping of fleabay for some little projects over the winter months.
I'm no expert and some folks will have different approaches or methods but as you can see from my pics the results look good.
Stevie
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