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Anodes (Read 5241 times)
sr4a
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Re: Anodes
Reply #15 - 31.10.2016 at 13:53:28
 
Hi Justin,

My thoughts on your earthed keel...

I would deem it unnecessary although American yacht forums have shrouds, masts and keels all connected because they seem to suffer a large percentage of lighting strikes when they're out on the water but even they disagree about whether the lightning conductors should run inside the cabin or just a wire dropped over the side when sailing because of safety concerns to people and the damage the lightning strike can cause to the boat hull
Although it can happen what are the chances of a lighting strike on a boat in the UK?
Should every home in UK have a lightning rod on the roof?
Seacocks made from bronze react very little with seawater it's where two dissimilar metals connected in sea water that corrosion occurs so if you link all these different metals like aluminium, iron, steel around your boat then there's a good chance there will be a potential difference between them and sacrificial corrosion can occur.
Your engine block is 'connected' to the sea through your prop and cooling system so the zinc anode corrodes to protect the 'iron lump'
The choice is entirely up to you.

Your LB system seems fine, just remember to ensure fuse panel is not linked to engine battery when starting engine.

Stevie

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Justin
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Re: Anodes
Reply #16 - 31.10.2016 at 18:19:46
 
Thanks for all that.

Stevie, when you say the fuse panel are you referring to the 240v system which I never have connected to shore power when running the engine.

The 12 v switchpanel is connected when I start the engine.  Am I wrong to do this and if so, why?
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« Last Edit: 31.10.2016 at 18:21:22 by Justin »  
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sr4a
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Re: Anodes
Reply #17 - 01.11.2016 at 13:06:53
 
Hi Justin,

Sorry for the confusion, I call both a fuse panel and refer to them as either the 230 volt or 12 volt.
I shall try to refer to the 12 volt as a switch panel if that's the correct description.
If your switch panel is connected to the engine battery then you will need to ensure that all instruments etc. are switched off before starting the engine.
When the alternator runs up it  cause spikes in the voltage/current that has the potential to damage electronic equipment, anything switched on will also be switching on and off during the starting of the engine as the battery's power is been drawn by the starter motor, whether this could cause any problems to your solar panels as you say they are connected directly to your battery I don't know?
See the thread about twin batteries and you'll understand the problems encountered.

Stevie

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Paul G
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Re: Anodes
Reply #18 - 01.11.2016 at 13:19:58
 
Hi all

Only one battery on Jasta and I simply start up the engine with all instruments fired up. Never caused an issue to date

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sr4a
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Re: Anodes
Reply #19 - 01.11.2016 at 13:28:48
 
Hi Justin,

Read through the tread for twin batteries and forgot that you asked about switches and cables in that thread (god I'm getting senile!)
Andy has got the Blue sea switch that ensure that the switch panel electrics and engine start electrics are totally isolated from each other on engine start due to the electronic sensor controller so if you forget to switch off your sat nav, radio or lights no damage can occur.
If you have a manual switch you will have to ensure that you switch all devices off yourself before engine start so as not to risk damage to electronic equipment.


Stevie

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Justin
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Re: Anodes
Reply #20 - 01.11.2016 at 14:57:07
 
This all seems rather odd to me.

For the last 2 years since I started using Harlequin, I've simply switched the 12 v isolator switch on and started the motor.  Sometimes I've turned on the separate switches on the fuse/switchpanel before doing this sometimes I haven't.  So often I have vhf, log, chartplotter, autopilot all switched on when I start the engine.

I've been sailing for  over 45 years on yachts and have never had this issue before.  Although autopilots and chartplotters have only come along in the last 10 years for me.

By the way I don't think that there is a correct terminology for fuse panel and switchpanel, I simply tend to call the 12 v one the switchpanel as it has a lot of switches on it having rewired the boat and the 240 v one the fuse box or consumer unit like in a house.
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John Woodhouse
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Re: Anodes
Reply #21 - 01.11.2016 at 16:18:25
 
I have never had a problem either, in only slightly less than 45 years!
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sr4a
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Re: Anodes
Reply #22 - 01.11.2016 at 18:31:34
 
Hi Guys,

Didn't want to cause a storm in a tea cup.

There's neither a right or a wrong here, it's all about risk assessment and how people perceive such.
Although the risks in this example are minute there's still a risk, whether we choose to act on it is purely the individuals choice.


Stevie
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John Woodhouse
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Re: Anodes
Reply #23 - 01.11.2016 at 20:27:58
 
Hi Stevie - certainly no storm. Discussions like this are the life blood of any web site.
Is there a parallel with one's motor car where clearly all the electronic goodies manage to survive engine starting etc?
Boatwise I am a great believer in as simple as possible so when one is well off shore & something goes wrong one has a chance of sorting it.
I am reminded of a round the world sailor in the southern ocean with a flat battery. He wound a rope round the crankshaft pulley, led it to the boom end & gybed the boat = engine started.
John
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sr4a
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Re: Anodes
Reply #24 - 02.11.2016 at 13:35:26
 
Hi John,

Re:
"Is there a parallel with one's motor car where clearly all the electronic goodies manage to survive engine starting etc.?"

Good question and the answer that I've found is a definitive No. Hopefully this link will work

www.st.com/resource/en/application_note/cd00181783.pdf

Basically car manufacturers install a whole load of equipment to protect anything with a 'chip' in the car.
Suppressors and Transils are some of the methods used to control surges/spikes that would damage the equipment.
Even jump starting a modern car has the potential to cause damage, lots of stories online on UK driver forums about how their ECM system was knackered by this.
Remember the days when the weekend would be spent under a car bonnet tweaking the carb armed with your trusty Haynes Manual, now you need to be a physicist to go near your engine, pity the garage mechanics who sometimes can't diagnose a fault and they've got the specialised equipment!!

Pre chip era most of the equipment i.e. radio, was probably solid state and therefore 'bomb proof'

Totally agree John when you over complicate a system more can go wrong and if we reacted to every scare/horror story out there we probably would deem everything far too great a risk to be worth doing

Anyways back to work....


Stevie
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